Glossary

block - a basic draft (dress, shirt, pant, etc.) in your sample size that is used as a template for all designs in that category. The block is manipulated into your design by moving seams, converting darts, lengthening, shortening, etc. Using blocks ensures consistency in fit throughout your product line.

CAD - an acronym for Computer Aided Design. We use OptiTex PDS (Pattern Design) & Marker Making software, which is a CAD program specifically designed for the sewn products industries.

cut # - the quantity to be cut from a particular pattern piece - e.g. two sleeves as opposed to one.

fit reference - a well-fitting garment that you may own, borrow or buy so that we can knock if off and manipulate it into your new design. The garment need not be a similar style but should be in a similar fabric and have a similar "fit" (i.e. body-conscious, fitted, loose, oversize, etc.)

grade rules - the mathematical formulas that dictate the amounts to increase/decrease between the sample size and the other sizes in your size range as well as where these increases/decreases are distributed on the pattern both horizontally (around the body) and vertically.

grading - the sizing of your production pattern from your  sample size into your full size range. A sample size is also known as a base size or a master pattern.

hard paper pattern - an "oaktag", "tag" or "manilla" paper pattern that is designed to stand-up to factory use.

marker - a schematic of the graded pattern pieces that is used as a cutting guide. When produced by experienced marker makers, a marker will optimize the usage of your fabric and improve overall cutting quality.

pattern alterations - changes made to a pattern due to either of the following:  you change your mind about some element of the design and/or the fit needs to be further perfected after your sample is constructed and fit on your model.

pattern audit - a pattern check which includes walking-off all seams and notches and double-checking all shaping, grainlines and cut #'s. The pattern may also be checked against a specification sheet. Sometimes we use an audit to investigate problems in the production process with a particular style.

sample marker - a plot of a particular style in your sample size that is used to cut out a sample and have it sewn. Samples are completed to check design lines, fit, etc. before grading the pattern.

sample size - the size chosen for your first pattern; this is usually dictated by your fit model.

specifications - detailed garment measurements and other important production information such as yields, findings, label placement, fabric information, etc.

technical fashion drawing -  a flat, rather than three-dimensional drawing, that is not stylized but drawn to human proportions; this drawing will specify all of the details necessary to take the garment throughout the production cycle and may also include specifications as well as close-ups of details.

walk-off - to measure a seam and its notches to ensure they will match when sewn together.